The Great State of Texas-
I am not sure why it has taken me so long to write about Texas, after all It is one of my favorite places! I suppose I was hoping to focus the blog on one particular destination or event and I have had a hard time choosing just one. Instead I think it is appropriate to discuss some of the cities and areas Texas has to offer.
San Antonio:
San Antonio feels like a very small city despite its population of 1.4 million people. Over half the population is Hispanic, people are noticeably religious, there are hundreds of thousands of military personnel due to the number of training bases, and yet it does not feel overly conservative. It is flawed and gritty in some areas, but easy to navigate, even in the downtown and Riverwalk areas. The San Antonio Riverwalk is a major tourist attraction and draws good-sized crowds even in the colder months – spillover from the Alamo Bowl, San Antonio Spurs games, or holiday events taking place over the winter. Summer is obviously the busiest time on the Riverwalk, but the ample restaurants and shops located on both sides of the river are perfectly equipped to handle the influx of tourists.
Our favorite hotel on the Riverwalk is the Hotel Valencia . It is located right on the Riverwalk, but closer to the Northwest end so not directly in the heart of the action. It has rooms with balconies that overlook the Riverwalk, as well as rooms tucked away within the hotel for better noise control. Choose one of these if you are a light sleeper. There is a swanky bar with a terrace inside the hotel and a restaurant called Acenar just steps away that serves delicious contemporary Mexican cuisine.
There is no shortage of wonderful dining options in San Antonio and Acenar is just of one of our favorites. San Antonio is not cosmopolitan, but where it lacks some of the big city offerings, it makes up for in its charm. The King William District, a neighborhood on the south bank of the San Antonio River known for its 19th century Victorian mansions and cultural attractions, is filled with art galleries, cafes, boutiques, and beautiful architecture. On-street parking is easily available, so park your car and spend some time walking in the neighborhoods admiring the well preserved estates and live oak trees. There is no shortage of fun bars on the Riverwalk and downtown, but one of our favorites is the Havana Bar in the Hotel Havana on the Riverwalk. It feels a bit like a speakeasy; they let you smoke cigars, and the bartenders make a mean whiskey drink. The rooms in the hotel are pretty nice, too if you are looking for a place to stay with more charm and history than other nearby hotels.
Corpus Christie:
As a child I lived many years in Corpus Christie, Texas and, although I have fond memories of growing up on the beach there, recent visits have shown the area to be much less idyllic than I remembered. The scenery is interrupted with views of oil rigs, which has psychologically affected the way I feel about swimming in the already murky water. The warm water, although pleasant for beach goers, has increased the jellyfish population, making swimming a bit riskier. The beaches do not feel clean and the area has very few nice hotels. To stay in the area, you are limited to a Radisson, a Hyatt, or a Marriott. Even the condo rentals options are few. If you are absolutely looking for a Texas gulf beach vacation, Port Aransas is only a short ferry ride from Corpus Christie and, although the beaches are not much nicer, is less crowded and better for swimming.
Austin:
The capital of Austin is pretty perfect. It has just the right blend of hipsters and college kids and young professionals. Like San Antonio it does not feel like a large city, although the population grows considerably each fall with the influx of college students. The University of Texas adds a youthful demographic to an already energetic town, and the presence of undergraduates keeps the happy hour offerings consistent. Although we avoid the 6th street scene these days there are still plenty of vibrant neighborhoods to explore in Austin.
The South Congress Street neighborhood is the more mature version of 6th street and has so much more to offer. One of our favorite happy hour spots is Gueros Taco Bar on South Congress. You can have a few beers and tacos and spend less than $20. Hotel San Jose is a great boutique hotel on South Congress. It has a charming courtyard with a pool that no one really uses for swimming. Rather hotel guests and visitors lounge poolside drinking rose’ in a quiet respite, just outside the busy South Congress scene. At $400-$500 a night, if the price tag for accommodations is out of your comfort zone, just make a visit for happy hour before you get your evening started. Alternatively, and if your budget is a little higher, the Hotel Saint Cecilia is also close to the South Congress scene and even more glamorous than the other hotels offered by the Bunkhouse Collection. If you do go – they run specials in the summer often for as much as 50% off if you book in May and stay in June or July. Choose Suite Four for the extra outdoor space and go in style. If you visit during South by Southwest (SXSW), the Hotel San Jose hosts a live music and vendor scene in their adjacent parking lot called South by San Jose. This is often a great place to see smaller bands on the festival circuit and pick up some artisanal clothing and jewelry.
For vacations when you need more living space or a more affordable option we like the private rentals located in Travis Heights called Soco Spaces. We have stayed in The Orange Door, Yellow Door, Blue Door and Green Door and prefer the outdoor space offered at the Blue Door and Green Door. These spaces are rented for as low as $225 a night, are two bedrooms, and are a short walk to South Congress. It’s not a terribly long walk, but if your time is limited and you don’t enjoy a lot of walking, you will probably need a car to navigate the city from a rental at SoCo Spaces.
While you are there some of the best places to visit outside of the South Congress area are the Rainey Street District, a boutique collection of old bungalows turned into bars with outdoor space under beautiful live oaks. They have a brewery and food trucks and a scene that is lively without being too manic like 6th street. The 2nd Street District is a bit more sophisticated and usually attracts a more mature (but not too old!) audience. It is part of what is becoming a proper theatre district with arts venues and the ballet located at one end and vibrant shops and restaurants on the other. One of the staples of this district is La Condesa. If you can sit in the bar area during happy hour you can try a lot of the menu options in smaller quantities, and enjoy some of their signature cocktails while overlooking the city scene.
Bouldin Creek is a neighborhood closer to Zilker Park, where the Austin City Limits Festival is held annually. Although not as close to South Congress, is it close to Barton Springs, which is a “must do” on any trip to Austin providing the weather is warm. Barton Springs is a natural spring, so it never seems to warm up past the 65 degrees, but if the ambient temperature is in the 90s it can be a perfect way to escape the heat. There are many great options on Airbnb for lodging in Bouldin Creek and it’s still a very walkable neighborhood, especially if you are in town for ACL. Have a great vegetarian lunch at the Bouldin Creek Café before you get your day started.
If you like sushi, the best restaurant in all of Austin is undoubtedly Uchi Sushi. The sushi is divine, some of the best we have ever had. It literally melts in your mouth. The preparations are so unique and exquisite and all the recommendations are perfect. You need a reservation, but if you arrive early you can have a drink in the courtyard under the trees. Go hungry and order everything.
Our second favorite restaurant in Austin is Perla’s located in the South Congress neighborhood. It has amazing seafood and cozy outdoor seating areas that are suitable for even larger groups. Take some friends for brunch and hang out on the sofas in their covered porch.
After a day spent enjoying the sights or walking the city, stop into the Continental Club on South Congress for some live music and dancing. The cover charge is minimal and they usually have some kind of drink special – even if it is on cans of Lone Star Light.
Texas Hill Country Wineries:
People don’t usually associate Texas with wine. For years I did not even know there were wineries in Texas, but when I discovered the Texas Hill Country Wineries it was like I was introduced to a brand new world. I love visiting Napa and Sonoma. The weather, the natural beauty, and of course the wines are worth an annual visit during harvest. I did not expect the Texas Hill Country wineries to be so magical! The wine rivals California wines, the prices are much lower, and they are much less crowded than their Napa counterparts. One of the best ways to experience the region is to buy a ticket to the Wine and Wildflower Tour in April of very year, choose a region and several wineries to visit. If you live in Texas, your pass is good for the whole month, but even if you are visiting you can get still your money’s worth if you plan your day well. The wineries are not close together, like they are in Napa or Sonoma, so you should allow 30 minutes between wineries to make the drive. You should probably also consider designating someone to drive so if you have an underage sibling, or a friend who happens to be sober or any for any reason, offer to buy him or her lunch and enjoy your day at the wineries.
Stay Tuned for more on Houston and Marfa when we visit those Texas cities later this month!
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